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Topics Covered:
Winter Sailing - Rigging Multiple Cam Sails
Adjustable Outhauls - Fin Storage - Mast Storage -
Rigging For a Windy Day
How Do I Get Into The Rear Footstrap
What Type of Vehicle - Motorhomes
Cars and Roof Racks - Vans
5Th Wheel Trailers - Small Trailers
Tents - Travel Trailers - Tent Campers - Truck Campers - Disclaimer
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Winter Sailing - Rules of Thumb.
1: If it's not iced over, go sailing. However, remember, the air temperature should be 40' or above.
2: Have a good dry suit that seals. You could be in the water an hour or more.
3: Use a full hood. Try to have your forehead covered. This saves on getting the old ice-cream headache when first falling in.
4: Sail with a friend.
5: Know your gear. It needs to be in good condition, especially your universal joint.
6: Know several self rescue techniques.
7: Sail side onshore winds.
8: Don't sail further than you can swim.
9: Use a board you can uphaul on, unless you are sure you can waterstart the whole session.
10: To sail with gloves, you need to condition your forearm and wrist muscles. These are some of the smallest muscles in the body, yet are called on to do some of the toughest work. A good idea is to do wrist curls with palm up and palm down. You should vary the weight from 10 to 20 lbs. Do 2 or 3 sets of 30. After about three weeks of two days on and one day off of serious work outs, you should be able to sail a normal 1 to 2 hour session and survive the glove thing.
These are a few pointers if you want to brag to your friends about your hard core winter sailing.
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Rigging Multiple Cam Sails
I decided a long time ago the less I have to do to go sailing the better, so when rigging multiple cam sails there are a few tricks I've found that makes life a whole lot easier and shortens the rigging time.
1: The newer style sails have so much pre-curve in the luff sleeve that when inserting the mast often the sail will bunch up accordion style, and when down hauling the mast it may separate at the joint a half to one inch, setting up for a broken mast. The answer is obvious. Take the time to tape the mast joint and save yourself a couple of hundred bucks in replacement pieces.
2: It is better not to insert the mast into the cambers, but to assemble the mast and sail. Lightly downhaul to remove the wrinkles, then outhaul to the finished position. If the cambers have zippers undo them, then put the mast on your knee and with one hand push down in the pocket and with the other pop each camber into place. Close the zippers, finish down hauling. It's a piece of cake.
When you get the hang of it, it works out well and eliminates the cams coming off the mast when rigging. This method works great especially when the sail is broken in and you have established your adjustment positions. One last point. There are sails which are so narrow in the luff sleeve that you have no option but to thread the camber when inserting the mast.
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Adjustable Outhauls for Recreational Sailing
My thinking about adjustable outhauls has evolved since I first started using them. Sometimes I would use them then I would'nt use them, then I would use them. Presently I'm using them.
For recreational sailing and just plain hot dogging it around the lake I'm constantly trying to think of ways I can tweek the gear to squeeze out that little bit of extra speed. The right board, the right sail, the right fin. I aim for flatter sails with lots of upwind ability. A fin with just that right amount of lift and pointing ability, and a board that is nothing short of a rocket.
With the larger race sails I will set my adjustable outhaul for the prevailing wind conditions. I'll let the outhaul loose for light wind days for maximum "get up and go" power. If the winds should pick up I will outhaul the sail to flatten it and to handle the higher winds, or to point better should my sailing buddy be leaving me way down wind. You need to remember that baggy sails create a lot of turbulance so even though you may have power to get going you will lose speed and not point up wind very well. On a broad reach I like to sail as close to disaster as I dare and I can do that easily without letting out my outhaul, however, should I really want it to get exciting I will let out on the outhaul and go like the blazes. To me the adjustable outhaul is great for the Pros and the serious racer, but I've found that all the extra effort of rigging and using it makes it just an optional item for the weekend warrior. In fact some sailors have the outhaul adjustable from one side of the boom only.
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Hints on Fin Storage
The storage of fins has always been a pain. They hang around, get damaged or get lost. One way to coral these rascals is to go to your favorite Home Depot and purchase a plastic window shutter. Screw it to a flat vertical surface somewhere safe and shove your fins into the slots.
You can even pick your favorite color.
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Mast Storage
The newer style carbon masts are strong but fragile. They are susceptible to scratches and damage. One way to store them is to stop by your favorite builders supply and pick up two or three 9 foot lengths of vinyl rain guttering, stack mount them horizontally against a vertical surface someplace secure and then store your masts in their original bags in the guttering. You can even use a little velcro to hold the bags in place.
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Rigging for a Windy Gusty Day.
Out here in the midwest there are days where it doesn't seem possible to rig right as the wind speeds are all over the map. One minute there is virtually nothing, next you can barely hang on as you cruise over the top of the dam.
What I've found is to rig the largest sail you can hang on to, downhaul the daylights out of it without choking it. Outhaul in the normal way and use a board that has just a little more float using your boards normal size fin.
You will find that your sailing session will be a much more enjoyable and even handed event.
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How Do I Get Into the Rear Footstrap?
One of my many struggles in the early years was getting into that darned rear footstrap. It seemed that everything people told me to do was impossible to achieve. I could get into the front strap no problem, but the rear strap, forget it. Rounding up, slowing down, stalling out, it was very frustrating. I attended several clinics by the best and was told to bear off the wind by pointing my toes. That did'nt make sense since my toes were on the windward side of the board so how was that going to help. Another hint was to keep my arms straight, but what did that have to do with anything. Eventually through much frustration I figured a couple of things out. First, when getting on a plane with my foot in the front strap, I found that instead of trying to point my toes, I could lift my heel it would automatically point my toes and make the board bear off the wind. Second, keeping my arms straight was supposed to keep the mast forward. What I discovered was that if I walked back on the board toward the rear strap, I should walk back on the boom as well. This in turn kept the mast forward and helped stop the board from rounding up. Bingo! "Happy days are here again" The old frustrations began to fade away into the next set of frustrations.
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What type of Vehicle is best for Hauling my Windsurfing Stuff?
There are several questions to be asked when deciding what kind of vehicle is best for your windsurfing and/or camping needs.
1: What's is your budget?
2: How much work do you want to do to pursue this sport?
3: Do you want to live in it?
4: Do you want to take extended trips?
5: Do you want to be self contained?
6: Do you want a multi purpose vehicle?
7: Do you want to store your equipment with a minimum of handling?
8: Do you want to rough it, or do you want all the amenities of home?
9: Do you want to leave town with a minimum of fuss?
10: What kind of security do you want on your equipment?
The following are a few thoughts on the pros and cons of various vehicles.
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Motorhomes
Motorhomes are nice, and I've owned a few. However, they can be expensive to buy, run, and maintain. Advantages are, that you can enjoy them while traveling the highway. Meal preparation, sleeping, restroom access etc. Some problems arise though. What do you do with your gear, store it on the roof? but there's no security and it involves an awful lot of work. Haul a small trailer for the gear. That's fine, but what about the car that you want to tow for local driving. You could pull a van with all your gear inside. That would work.
Some motorhomes have basements which can be good for gear, but boards longer than 8 feet can be a problem.
When these vehicles are stored for extended periods of time it's hard to expect them to be ready to travel 500 to 3000 miles without some money having to be spent on preparation. Rubber belts and hoses deteriorate, and tires can look good, but if they are older than 6 years you are looking at a potential blowout. A friend of mine told me about a family of mice that made a home in his cruise control and ate his wires for breakfast. Not good!
One other thing, motor homes can't always make it to that secret spot you have always wanted to go to. So much for motorhomes. How about a car and a roof rack?
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Car and Roof Rack
This is probably the most common mode of transportation. Most times with a little work you can load the gear on the roof and go. It can be the inexpensive way also, but you still have that old security problem and dinging the roof can occur, and changing clothes can be difficult. A station wagon could be the ticket for the gear, but to some that's "Not Cool".
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How about a Van?
If you have a van dedicated to carrying your gear, then you can leave the stuff loaded all the time. There is a minimum of handling involved. You could even set up a small bed for sleeping. If your rack storage is modular you may be able to remove it and use your van for other things, making it a multi-purpose vehicle. The low roof line can be a little inconvenience for changing clothes though. Also camping means setting up and tearing down the camp site on those over-niters. It, like a car can sometimes mean handling a lot of stuff. Overall, a van is not a bad way to go.
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5th Wheel Trailer
These are nice. They can be expensive, but dollar for dollar you can get more per square foot than with a motorhome. They can come with a minimum of size and quality where to open the bathroom door you just spring the wall and the door pops open. On the high end, there are trailers thirty to forty plus feet long. These have triple axles and may have three slide outs, ducted air, walk in closets, hardwood floors, floor to ceiling mirrors, casablanca fans, large refrigerators and four season living. They are large, gorgeous and track well behind the tow vehicle.
Some of the down side are; What to do with the windsurfing gear. With the ones we had we hauled the gear in the basement and racked our boards on the roof of the truck. Again the usual problems of security, convenience and loading double boards on those extra windy days.
Another disadvantage is that the trailer cannot be enjoyed until stopped or arriving at the destination. They are great if you're staying someplace for a period of time. The newer models now can come with a drive in garage built into the rear for ATVs' and this might be an answer.
We loved the 5th wheels, but from a practical point of view, they didn't work well for our sailing experience.
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What about Hauling a Small Trailer?
A small open trailer can be ideal for carrying gear especially behind small cars and vans, but again there is that security problem. What is nice, is that trailers if secured can be unhooked and left when done with.
An enclosed utility trailer has some advantages. In fowl weather it can provide a sheltered place to change clothes on those cold sailing days, and it provides security for your gear. You might even have a drop down bed and with these new styled air mattresses, it's like sleeping at home. A roof rack could also be fitted to carry the kitchen sink. Here's a deal. The rear doors can be made into a cheap room extension. Camping and sailing gear can be prioritized. Boards can be stacked without their bags. Tools, camp stoves, and propane can be safely carried.
Most states do not require tags or taxes and insurance is cheap. To go sailing, just hook up and go. The larger frontal trailers can be somewhat of a fuel drag on the tow vehicle. However, there are streamlined trailers available which can help.
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Tents
Tents are good for folks who like the atmosphere of sleeping in a tent under the stars, and are wanting to watch their budget. When looking for a tent, look for one with a low profile for a high winds and with a rain fly that goes all the way to the ground. Some of the down side is noise, wind damage and potential flooding. There can also be considerable work involved with the camp site with showers and restrooms being an inconvenience.
For some though tent camping is the only way to go.
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Travel Trailer
Travel trailers can be another good alternative. They are reasonably priced and can have all the amenities of home. Gear hauling is in the tow vehicle or inside the trailer through that big ol cargo door at the trailer's rear. Care must be taken to match the tow vehicle as tracking can sometimes be a problem especially in high winds, with gas mileage also being a concern. The newer trailers, however, are very well balanced and if setup correctly can be a very satisfying way to go.
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Tent Campers
Tent campers are good for getting your feet off the ground when camping. They are spacious, reasonably priced and track well behind the tow vehicle. Gear storage is generally associated with the tow vehicle. However, the very nature of the sport of windsurfing takes us to some windy places and it's not unusual to have extremely windy fronts come through in the night so there is strong potential to end up with an overturned tent camper.
The larger units can require sometime to set up and to establish the camp site. I have used them, but generally stay away from tent campers when it comes to windsurfing. I would not hesitate to buy one for sheltered camping.
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Truck Campers
Truck campers are not what they used to be, but can come with hardwood Oak cabinet's, inside and outside showers, and three season living. They can sleep four adults and with a drop down bunk can carry a couple of small kids as well. They have all the conveniences of home, microwaves, three way refrigerators, generators and lots of storage. Cost wise used ones can vary from $500 clunkers to the high end of $25000 plus. It's amazing the space utilization. These campers are considered as cargo just like a sack of tators and do not require their own tag or property taxes. The insurance is cheap and is attached to the tow vehicle.
The newer campers may have four electric jacks which allows the truck to be driven from under the camper, then the camper is lowered close to the ground. This then frees the truck for local trips. Or else you can just lower the jacks with the camper on the truck and this stabilizes against almost any front that may come through.
Hauling the camper can be different as the center of gravity is a little higher than other vehicles, but this is one of the trade offs. Overload springs which cost around fifty bucks can make a big difference in stability. One thing you have to watch for though is if you go four wheeling to some hide out someplace you do not overly twist the truck frame as this will place extreme pressure on the camper hold downs and may damage the camper.
In conclusion. All these ramblings bring us to what our family uses. we have owned or used all these camping life styles, but for our windsurfing and camping needs we have found the truck camper and towing a 6 x 10 foot enclosed trailer to work well. We have the trailer set up with removable racks, sail, boom, and camping gear storage along with a 4.5 KW RV generator remotely controlled from the truck camper. There are camp chairs, picnic table, portable grill all handy for easy use.
When not traveling, I want to be able to go sailing locally at short notice during the week hence the trailer, and I want to be self contained on trips hence the truck camper. I use the truck for other things as well, and since I use it everyday I know the vehicle and am not too concerned as to whether it will make the next out of town trip. The diesel engine is clean burning and makes a big difference to the gas mileage, and it can keep up with the flow of traffic on the highways.
I hope these few thoughts will help you in your plans as you work toward that ultimate windsurfing experience.
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Disclaimer
These are strictly the opinions of the writer and everyone is entitled to them.
All these ramblings are intended to stimulate thought only. The writer should not be held responsible for screwups, disasters or losing the kitchen sink off the roof rack.
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